{"id":112,"date":"2026-01-06T22:36:44","date_gmt":"2026-01-07T03:36:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/?p=112"},"modified":"2026-01-06T22:36:45","modified_gmt":"2026-01-07T03:36:45","slug":"how-to-build-a-3d-printer-frame-from-scratch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/3d-printing-tutorials\/how-to-build-a-3d-printer-frame-from-scratch\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Build a 3D Printer Frame From Scratch"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"YouTube video player\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/7mM1ULKVuBA?si=mYSVVazJzq6-oZyO\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Understanding Voron Trident Frame Dimensions and Misumi Part Numbers<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Introduction: Yes, You Can Build a Printer Frame From Scratch<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If you\u2019re building a Voron-style printer, you can build your own 3D printer frame from raw aluminum extrusion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In many builds, the frame shows up as a finished component \u2014 pre-cut, pre-drilled, and ready to assemble. That works well when frame kits are available and you\u2019re building a standard configuration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In our case, that isn\u2019t an option.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For this build, we are intentionally shortening the printer to increase frame stiffness. There is no off-the-shelf frame kit available in this size, so the only way forward is to fabricate the frame ourselves: ordering 2020 aluminum extrusion, cutting it to length, drilling access holes, tapping ends, and assembling the frame from raw stock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This series documents how to do exactly that \u2014 starting with the most important step of all: understanding where the dimensions and machining requirements actually come from.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Interpreting Misumi Part Numbers in the Voron BOM<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Read to the bottom for an example interpretation. Head over to the playlist for the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/playlist?list=PLTMxUnmZnMqrQCZEcSiLbsdFntng6Fwk3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">HOW TO BUILD A PRINTER SERIES<\/a> to get all of the videos. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>One of the most confusing parts of building a printer frame from scratch is that the official Voron documentation does not usually provide explicit cut lists or drilling diagrams.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Instead, the information is encoded in the&nbsp;<strong>bill of materials<\/strong>, specifically in the Misumi extrusion part numbers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At first glance, those part numbers look opaque. In reality, they contain&nbsp;<em>everything you need<\/em>&nbsp;to reproduce the exact same frame geometry \u2014 if you know how to read them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Using our Trident-based build as an example (shown in the image above), each extrusion listed in the BOM communicates:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>The extrusion profile (2020)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The exact finished length<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Whether the ends are tapped<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Which ends are tapped<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Whether blind corner access holes are required<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Where along the extrusion those holes are located<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>For example, a part number such as:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Misumi HFSB5-2020-420-TPW<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tells you that this is:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>A 2020 aluminum extrusion<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>420 mm long<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>With both ends tapped<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Other suffixes indicate:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Single-end tapping<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Blind corner access holes<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Drilled features at specific distances from one end<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>When you interpret the BOM this way, it effectively&nbsp;<em>becomes<\/em>&nbsp;your cut list and machining guide. Voron does not spell this out step-by-step because most builders never need to \u2014 but if you\u2019re fabricating your own frame, this is the key skill that makes everything else possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the following videos, we take this decoded information and turn it into physical parts: cuts, drills, taps, and ultimately a complete, square frame.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Tradeoffs and Caveats of Building Your Own Frame<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Building a printer frame from scratch is absolutely doable \u2014 but it comes with real tradeoffs that are worth understanding before you commit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Tradeoffs<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>A properly manufactured frame kit is cut, drilled, and tapped with high accuracy and consistency. When you fabricate your own frame, you introduce the possibility of error at every step:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>A cut that is slightly out of square<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A length that is off by a fraction of a millimeter<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A tapped hole that isn\u2019t perfectly aligned<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>These errors don\u2019t always show up immediately. They often manifest later as difficult-to-diagnose issues:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Frames that refuse to square cleanly<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Subtle binding in motion components<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Print artifacts that don\u2019t respond to tuning because the underlying geometry isn\u2019t true<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>There is also the practical reality that mistakes cost time. A bad cut or mis-drilled extrusion may need to be re-made, which means re-cutting material and repeating work you already did once.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>None of this makes building your own frame a bad idea \u2014 it simply means accuracy and patience matter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Caveats<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>One important detail that often surprises first-time builders is aluminum extrusion specification.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you order extrusion directly, most suppliers will ship&nbsp;<strong>European-spec aluminum<\/strong>. In that case, the internal bore diameter at the ends of the extrusion is larger than what many Voron kits assume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Practically, this means:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>You will often need to tap the ends to&nbsp;<strong>M6 instead of M5<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Blind corner fasteners will need to be M6 hardware<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>This must be accounted for&nbsp;<em>before<\/em>&nbsp;you drill access holes<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>None of this is difficult, but it is something you must plan for. Mixing assumptions between kit hardware and raw extrusion can lead to frustrating fitment issues later in the build.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Frame Extrusions \u2014 What the Part Numbers Actually Mean<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"799\" height=\"465\" src=\"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/custom-trident-frame.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-117\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/custom-trident-frame.jpg 799w, https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/custom-trident-frame-300x175.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/custom-trident-frame-768x447.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 799px) 100vw, 799px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Screenshot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Misumi HFSB5-2020-450-LCP-RCP-AV310 (Qty: 4)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This part number describes:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>2020 aluminum extrusion profile<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Finished length:&nbsp;<strong>450 mm<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Blind corner access holes on&nbsp;<strong>both ends<\/strong>\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>LCP = left-side access holes<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>RCP = right-side access holes<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A drilled feature located&nbsp;<strong>310 mm from one end<\/strong>&nbsp;(AV310)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>In practice, this tells you:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Cut the extrusion to 450 mm<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Drill blind corner access holes on both ends<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Drill the specified internal feature at the defined offset<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Misumi HFSB5-2020-420-TPW (Qty: 9)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This part number describes:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>2020 aluminum extrusion profile<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Finished length:&nbsp;<strong>420 mm<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Tapped on both ends<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>In practice:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Cut to 420 mm<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Tap both ends (thread size depends on extrusion spec, typically M5 or M6)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Misumi HFSB5-2020-420-AH210-TPW (Qty: 1)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This part number adds one additional feature:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Finished length:&nbsp;<strong>420 mm<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Both ends tapped<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A drilled hole located&nbsp;<strong>210 mm from one end<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>This extrusion includes:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>End tapping on both sides<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A single drilled feature at a precise distance along the length<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Misumi HFSB5-2020-420-AH210 (Qty: 1)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Similar to the above, but:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>No end tapping specified<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>One drilled feature at&nbsp;<strong>210 mm<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>This tells you:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Cut to 420 mm<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Drill the feature at the specified offset<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>End preparation depends on how it is used in the frame<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Misumi HFSB5-2020-380 (Qty: 1)<\/strong><br><strong>Misumi HFSB5-2020-290 (Qty: 1)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>These are the simplest entries:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>2020 extrusion<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Finished lengths of&nbsp;<strong>380 mm<\/strong>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<strong>290 mm<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>No additional machining specified<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>In practice:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Cut to length<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>All other operations are defined elsewhere in the assembly<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Misumi HFSB5-2020-282-LTP (Qty: 1)<\/strong><br><strong>Misumi HFSB5-2020-280-LTP (Qty: 1)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>These entries specify:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Finished lengths:&nbsp;<strong>282 mm<\/strong>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<strong>280 mm<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Tapped on one end only<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cLTP\u201d indicates a single-end tap, with orientation defined by how the part is installed in the frame.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Why This Matters<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>When you break the BOM down this way, it becomes clear that the Voron documentation already contains all the information needed to fabricate a frame \u2014 it\u2019s simply encoded rather than spelled out step-by-step.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once you understand how to read these part numbers, you can:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Build non-standard frame sizes<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Modify existing designs<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Fabricate replacement parts<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Work confidently without relying on pre-cut kits<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>The remainder of this video series takes these decoded requirements and turns them into physical operations: cutting, drilling, tapping, and assembling a square, rigid printer frame.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/cut-frame-custom-3d-printer-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-118\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/cut-frame-custom-3d-printer-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/cut-frame-custom-3d-printer-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/cut-frame-custom-3d-printer.jpeg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Understanding Voron Trident Frame Dimensions and Misumi Part Numbers Introduction: Yes, You Can Build a Printer Frame From Scratch If you\u2019re building a Voron-style printer, you can build your own 3D printer frame from raw aluminum extrusion. In many builds, the frame shows up as a finished component \u2014 pre-cut, pre-drilled, and ready to assemble. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[23,28,20,25,24,22,27,26,21],"class_list":["post-112","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-3d-printing-tutorials","tag-2020-aluminum-extrusion-frame","tag-blind-corner-extrusion-drilling","tag-build-a-3d-printer-frame-from-scratch","tag-custom-voron-frame-build","tag-interpreting-voron-bom","tag-misumi-extrusion-part-numbers","tag-tapping-and-drilling-aluminum-extrusion","tag-voron-frame-fabrication","tag-voron-trident-frame-dimensions"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/112","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=112"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/112\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":119,"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/112\/revisions\/119"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=112"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=112"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/northforge3d.com\/forge-updates\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=112"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}